THE MADDIE CAPE
Your step-by-step guide to making your masterpiece
Hey there, stitch superstar! You’ve just unlocked the secret sauce to making your very own crochet cape, and we’re excited to be stitching it out with you.
Whether you're learning for the first time, or already have a few crochet masterpieces under your belt, these instructions will cover everything you need to know. We’ll take you from “how do I hold this hook?” to “look what I made!” — one cosy row at a time.
Heads up! You'll need the physical pattern that came with your kit as well as this online guide. The pattern contains the specifics, this guide gives you the extra layer of detail.
INCLUDED IN YOUR KIT
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT (Or CLOSE ENOUGH!)
Before we dive into the good stuff, let’s warm up those hands and your hook. Think of this like stretching before a workout, except comfier, cuter, and way more fun.
Grab some of the yarn from your kit (just a little, you’ve got enough to spare!), and get familiar with the motions. Try out the stitches you’ll be using in this pattern. This is your time to mess it up, try again, and feel things out — no pressure, no judgement, just you and your new fave hobby.
Bonus: Practising now = fewer headaches later (trust us on this one).
For this practise session we recommend you crochet a flat square - it's the best way to learn the stitches and once you've got that mastered you can move into the pattern and lean the magic ring.
Slip Knot
AKA how to attach your yarn to your hook!
Chain
In this video we show you how to make a foundation chain - the starting point for most crochet projects.
Double Crochet
This is the main stitch you'll use in this pattern. Once you've got this, you're ready to start!
Slip Stitch
The last piece to the puzzle, we use a slip stitch create the ties on our cape.
TEST YOUR GAUGE
Once you’re feeling comfy with the stitches, it’s time to check your gauge. We know, we know — it sounds technical, but it’s really just about making sure your tension matches the pattern.
Why? Because different crocheters = different stitch tightness. And we want your finished masterpiece to fit like a dream.
So grab your measuring tape, crochet up a little swatch (there’s a guide for that at the link below!), and let’s make sure you’re on track before the main event begins.
How to test your gauge
THE MADDIE CAPE
If done correctly, your 10x10cm crochet swatch should measure 13 stitches wide, and 10 rows high when made in double crochet stitches using your 5mm hook.
Repeat after me:
“I solemnly swear to crochet bravely, unpick calmly, and pretend I meant to do that.
I accept that chaos is part of the craft, and possibly part of my personality.
I will finish what I start… eventually.”
THE CAPE
We make our cape in one piece from the top down. A series of increases across the rows gives our cape a fan effect. We finish by adding a frill around the edge and adding the tie cords.
First you'll make your foundation chain. Chain a total of 66 stitches. The loop on your hook doesn't count as a stitch.
For this first double crochet (DC) you'll work into the third chain from the hook. By working into the third chain from the hook we get the height we need to continue the row. Once that first DC is done, you'll do a DC into every chain to the end of the row. Count your stitches, you should have 64 stitches at the end of the row.
As we complete this row you'll use your stitch markers to mark every 8th stitch. You'll have 7 stitches marked in total.
Chain 3, and turn your work. Let's do row 2. In this row we're going to make increases into the stitches marked with a stitch marker.
Your chain 3 counts as your first stitch, so you'll do the next DC into the second stitch. Then do a DC into each stitch until you reach the first marker.
When you reach the first marker, do one DC into the stitch, then chain 1, and do another DC into the same stitch space. Move your stitch marker to the chain 1.
Continue to the end of the row.
When you reach the end of the row do a DC into the top of your chain 3 from the previous row. Then chain 3 and turn your work.
💡 If you're struggling to pull your hook through the loops, chances are your tension is too tight. Loosen up when you yarn over so that the hook as more space to get through.
No increases in this round! Just do a DC into every stitch in the row. Remember, the chain counts as your first stitch, so DC into the second sitch.
Treat the chain 1 between your increase stitches as a stitch and work into it like the other stitches. Move the stitch marker up to the DC you've done into the chain.
Repeat this two row sequence another 17 times.
Leaving a tail of 15cm, cut your yarn from your ball and fasten off to finish this piece.
We make a frill by doing 4 DC into the one space, then doing a slip stitch into the next space and repeat - the multiple DCs in one space create a fan or a frill.
When we say 'space' we're looking for spaces between horizontal bars. Space them evenly.
So let's do it.
Use a slip stitch to join your yarn to the top corner of the cape. Chain 3 and then do another 3 DC into the same space. This is our first frill.
Do a slip stitch into the next space. Then do 4 DC into the next space. Repeat.
When your reach a corner you'll add extra DCs into the space so the frill stretches further.
We make the ties by doing a chain and then working a slip stitch back into the chain.
Use a slip stitch to reattach your yarn, then chain 45 stitches. Don't chain too tightly or the ties might curl. Once you've chained 45, turn the chain and do a slip stitch into each chain back to the top of the tie. Cut your yarn from the ball and fast off.
Repeat for the next tie.
Use your darning needle to weave in the loose ends and you are done! Epic work, legend!
BLOCKING (Optional)
The final step in finishing a piece is to block it. This step is optional and not all beginner crocheters will block their work but it can improve the overall shape and finish of your piece.
Blocking is a process where you wet your piece to set the finished size and even out the stitches.
Soak your piece in cool water. You only need to let your piece sit in the water for a few minutes and make sure the full piece is completely wet.
Remove your piece from the water and dry it off by rolling it in a towel. You want to get us much of the moisture out of it as possible at this point but be gentle! You don't want to stretch the piece.
Transfer your damp piece to a flat surface to block it on. If you've got a blocking mat - great! otherwise a towel will work. The surface needs to be somewhere where your work can lie flat and can stay there until it fully dries so that the shape sets properly. Make sure it's not a surface that can be easily damaged by having something wet sitting on it!
Arrange your piece so the right side is facing up and the shape is as you'd like it. If you've got a measuring tape you can measure and adjust the piece so it's the correct size.
Allow the work to air dry - this can take a few days. You can also use a hair dryer to speed up the process, just use a light heat and don't concentrate the air in one spot.
