THE PAIGE BONNET
Your step-by-step guide to making your masterpiece
Hey there, stitch superstar! You’ve just unlocked the secret sauce to making your very own granny square bonnet, and we’re excited to be stitching it out with you.
Whether you're learning for the first time, or already have a few crochet masterpieces under your belt, these instructions will cover everything you need to know. We’ll take you from “how do I hold this hook?” to “look what I made!”
Heads up! You'll need the physical pattern that came with your kit as well as this online guide. The pattern contains the specifics, this guide gives you the extra layer of detail.
INCLUDED IN YOUR KIT
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT (Or CLOSE ENOUGH!)
Before we dive into the good stuff, let’s warm up those hands and your hook. Think of this like stretching before a workout, except comfier, cuter, and way more fun.
Grab some of the yarn from your kit (just a little, you’ve got enough to spare!), and get familiar with the motions. Try out the stitches you’ll be using in this pattern. This is your time to mess it up, try again, and feel things out — no pressure, no judgement, just you and your new fave hobby.
Bonus: Practising now = fewer headaches later (trust us on this one).
For this practise session we recommend you crochet a flat square - it's the best way to learn the stitches and once you've got that mastered you can move into the pattern and lean the magic ring.
Slip Knot
AKA how to attach your yarn to your hook!
Chain
In this video we show you how to make a foundation chain - the starting point for most crochet projects.
Double Crochet
This is the main stitch you'll use in this pattern. Once you've got this, you're ready to start!
Repeat after me:
“I solemnly swear to crochet bravely, unpick calmly, and pretend I meant to do that.
I accept that chaos is part of the craft, and possibly part of my personality.
I will finish what I start… eventually.”
GRANNY SQUARES
Our granny squares are made in 6 rounds of double crochet clusters. Alternating between your three colours. You'll make four squares total. Each square should measure 13.5cmx13.5cm.
how to crochet a granny square 🎥
This video shows you how to crochet a granny square from start to finish. For more detail on each step scroll further down.
Okay, let's break it down.
First you'll make your magic ring.
Once the ring is made, chain 3. This will count as your first double crochet (DC). Next, do 2 DC into the circle and then chain 2.
Still working into the magic ring. Do 3 DC and then chain 2. By chaining 2 we’re making space between our clusters and we’ll use this space when we work up the next round.
Repeat the last step 2 more times to complete your third and fourth clusters.
Do a slip stitch into the top of your original chain 3 to join your work. Cut your yarn from the ball and fasten off.
Weave your tails in.
💡 Weaving in the end every time you do a colour change/complete a round, will save you a lot of time at the end.
Congratulations, you now know all the techniques to complete the next five rounds, it's simply adding more clusters into spaces in order to grow the square.
SEAMING
Once you've completed all your squares you'll seam your squares together using the technique in the video.
EDGING
Great job! Now let's add the edging which frames the front of the bonnet.
Staring in the corner, join your yarn by inserting your hook and yarning over. You're going to do 3 SC into each cluster. Work along the edge of the three granny squares until you reach the other side.
RIB
Time to start our ribbed border along the bottom of the bonnet.
A crochet rib is made with short rows worked into the back loop only and it creates a stretchy, knit-like texture that’s perfect for cuffs, hems, neckbands, and beanies.
Instead of working across a wide piece of fabric, you’re making a series of narrow rows that are worked back and forth. Each row becomes a “rib” in the finished fabric.
Let's go.
With your yarn still attached to your bonnet, chain 6, then SC into the second chain from your hook like normal, SC into the back loop of your chain x 4, now you’re going to skip a stitch and SC into the next stitch on your bonnet to finish the first row of ribbing.
Chain 1 and turn your work, and now SC x 5 in the back loop back up your ribbed edge. Chain 1 and turn your work.
SC your first stitch like normal. Now SC into the back loop x 5, skipping a stitch, SC into your bonnet edge. Turn your work. Repeat until you reach the other corner edge of your bonnet. You want your last row of ribbing to finish at the tie edge of your ribbing, not the bonnet edge as now you’re going to create a chain for your first tie.
TIES
The finish line is in sight!
The final step is to create the ties at each corner. Without cutting your yarn, chain 50. Then do a slip stitch into the second chain from the hook, and continue to slip stitch down the chain until you reach the base of the bonnet. Slip stitch into the stitch at the base of your bonnet. Fasten off to finish.
Join your yarn in the opposite corner, where your second tie will go and chain 50. Then just like we did for the first tie, you’ll do a slip stitch into the second chain, and continue to slip stitch until you reach the end of your chain. Slip stitch into the stitch at the base of your bonnet. Fasten off to finish.
And that’s your bonnet done! Give yourself a huge pat on the back. She’s a stunner!
BLOCKING (Optional)
The final step in finishing a piece is to block it. This step is optional and not all beginner crocheters will block their work but it can improve the overall shape and finish of your piece.
Blocking is a process where you wet your piece to set the finished size and even out the stitches.
Soak your piece in cool water. You only need to let your piece sit in the water for a few minutes and make sure the full piece is completely wet.
Remove your piece from the water and dry it off by rolling it in a towel. You want to get us much of the moisture out of it as possible at this point but be gentle! You don't want to stretch the piece.
Transfer your damp piece to a flat surface to block it on. If you've got a blocking mat - great! otherwise a towel will work. The surface needs to be somewhere where your work can lie flat and can stay there until it fully dries so that the shape sets properly. Make sure it's not a surface that can be easily damaged by having something wet sitting on it!
Arrange your piece so the right side is facing up and the shape is as you'd like it. If you've got a measuring tape you can measure and adjust the piece so it's the correct size.
Allow the work to air dry - this can take a few days. You can also use a hair dryer to speed up the process, just use a light heat and don't concentrate the air in one spot.
